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Toners -
A carefully considered position
Please realize that our position
on toners is not something we have come to casually, but a subject which
we have considered and studied very seriously. It would be quite
easy for us to simply follow the trend of so many people who offer skin
advice, and to repeat whatever seems to be the current popular homily.
Instead, our position on toners is based on a considerable amount of study,
explorative thinking and experimentation regarding what is most effective.
In other words, our objective is not, what is a trendy approach, but, instead,
what truly works best in promoting the healthiest skin. Therefore,
we recommend using an alcohol based toner in conjunction with the SkinClean
regimen, but with some notable exceptions, which are described in more
detail following. For example, we explain how if a proper rinse routine
is employed with the SkinClean system, the primary need for the alcohol
toner with our system is negated. We describe, however, why it is
indicated for most users, as well as some other advantages it enjoys.
First, is a toner safe for the skin?
It is extremely popular for some
of those giving advice about skin care to say that alcohol in a toner is
bad for the skin. This logic has become very widespread, and like
so much "common wisdom" it is based on statements made, and oft repeated,
but without the support of substantiating data. Alcohol based toners
are key products in virtually every major skin care line, simply because
they are effective. In addition, they are beneficial and non irritating
for most people. The truth is that based on their overwhelming usage by
millions of people daily, alcohol based toners pass any scrutiny regarding
whether or not they act predictably as an irritant to the skin. The
answer is that the usage data overwhelmingly demonstrates that alcohol
toners have proven themselves to be quite safe for daily usage for most
people, and the continuous use, and repeat purchases, by millions, because
of their own personal experiences without difficulty, enables this category
of product to be regarded as safe and compatible with the skin for nearly
all people.
Another interesting and conclusive
bit of data that sheds light on the safety of alcohol in toners, is information
regarding the usage and history of alcohol based after shave lotions sold
for men (truly, these are actually toner formulations with an added so-called
"masculine" fragrance). These products, led by Mennen's Skin Bracer,
accounted for $818 million in sales in the United States last year (a remarkable
$9 average annual purchase per male between 15 and 64 years old).
These men's "toners" are used every day after shaving, splashed generously
on the face and neck, where the skin is cut and nicked by blades, with
great satisfaction, and without irritation, by most men, resulting in their
continued support of the product and repurchase. The alcohol based
Skin Bracer is a product which has been used repeatedly, daily, by
millions of men for the past fifty years, and its' popularity in many families
spans three or more generations, passed on from father to son. No
competitive product has ever been able to assail its' hold on the number
one sales position for decades. Most significant is that many attempts
have been made to market an alcohol-free after shave for men, however,
in spite of vigorous sampling campaigns and promotions, this category accounts
for only a fraction of one percent of sales. Certainly non-alcohol
men's toner (after shave lotion) has a use for that very tiny segment of
the population who finds the alcohol ingredient to be either irritating,
or perhaps they find the stinging which often accompanies usage, just unpleasant,
and not appealing to their personal sensibilities. Whatever the reasons,
or the supposed need for a non-alcohol product, the male population has
never substantiated the category by supporting it with purchases.
So the conclusion which can be drawn
from this remarkable usage data is that for most people, application of
alcohol daily and repeatedly to the skin is not an irritant, and produces
results which are satisfying to the user. The operative term used
in these discussions, as with any ingredient or formulation, is "most people."
A very tiny percentage of the population will find that different ingredients,
such as alcohol, will act as an irritant to them. If this is the case with
any product or ingredient then that item is contraindicated for use by
that person.
Why use a toner with the SkinClean
system?
This is a question which is responsibly
asked. Why is a toner recommended as part of the SkinClean regimen,
when it seems unnecessary? First, a toner is really only
recommended by SkinClean as a finishing part of your rinsing routine, and
what is most significant is that you really do not need a toner with SkinClean
if you rinse appropriately with warm water. Although a toner serves
several other beneficial purposes, which are described later, its' most
important function is to enable a user to completely remove any residual
facial cleanser from the skin. If a user makes the observation they
really didn't think they need a toner with the SkinClean system then it
is possible that they were following an appropriate rinsing routine.
Unlike other treatment products which contain ingredients such as benzoyl
peroxide or one of the glycolic acids, which need to be left on the skin
to be effective, the SkinClean system does its' work entirely during the
application and scrubbing process. It is then required to be removed
totally from the skin during the rinsing process. We recommend
the following rinsing procedure: Use warm water with repeated flushing
of all areas, which were cleansed, using water which is very warm to the
touch. Don't use water so hot that it would burn your skin, but certainly
select a temperature which pushes up to just under the limits of your comfortable
zone. Rinse repeatedly until the skin feels "squeaky clean."
Our experience indicates as many as four or five flushes of the skin with
fresh warm water is what produces satisfactory results. If you follow
this procedure with SkinClean, then you really don't need a toner.
For a long time we merely included these instructions, and didn't mention
the use of a toner at all as part of our recommendations.
Many people simply don't rinse properly
The reason we see a need for a general
alcohol toner recommendation is based on our long term observation of people
using the product. We have seen that the general population is very
difficult to train in how to rinse the skin properly after cleansing.
We have found that in a one-to-one laboratory setting, where we are doing
tests with volunteers, most people, have to be instructed strictly about
how to rinse effectively. The tendency is for most individuals to
do a quick splash or two of water, and then to towel off.
We have found, however, that individuals,
when guided face to face, are quite responsive to personal instructions,
and those people will then follow the steps, as outlined previously, and
from then on, do a good job of rinsing. Those persons then make the appropriate
rinsing a part of their daily routine, and they find a special satisfaction
in their new found knowledge about proper rinsing. However, we have
found that written instructions regarding appropriate rinsing often go
unheeded. A great number of individuals seem to follow
what evidently are naturally occurring, very bad habits regarding rinsing
the skin. Typical are people who finish their scrubbing
process, then flush their skin one or two times with water and towel
dry. Others will only give themselves a single cupped handful rinse,
getting some of the cleanser off, then just wiping off the remainder with
a towel.
What has caused the creation of these
poor rinsing habits has been the subject of much speculation in our laboratory
setting for many years, but it has probably been produced by the patterns
ingrained into many women's subconscious minds from the custom of removing
other cosmetic materials from the face. It has been always customary
for women to use towels or cotton wipes to remove makeup after
applying a lotion cleanser. The final step for those products is
to simply wipe the residual from the skin. Another reason might be
the popularity of the washing sequence in films and television for the
past fifty years. In a movie, anyone washing their face, who is approached
by someone else, immediately grabs a towel and wipes off any remaining
sudsy material from their face, and begins their conversation. If
you haven't observed this consciously, you will begin to see it now
that your attention has been drawn to this peculiar custom. Likewise,
if you have ever seen a man in the process of shaving in a movie, with
his face all lathered up, if he is interrupted for any reason, he just
grabs a towel and wipes off the remaining foam, (what is funny is will
have only shaved half of his face, but wiping off the lather shows an entire
smooth totally shaven face ). How much these movie experiences may
have contributed to the psychological mind set concerning proper rinsing
is subject to speculation. Others have postulated that it is just
a matter of the pace which people put themselves into in our rushing work-a-day
world, and we are programmed that time saved by eliminating steps is really
the natural and responsible way to act. Our efficiency training makes
it seem silly and impractical to waste time rinsing five or six times,
when one or two splashes will do. However, no matter what the causes
or motivation, we know the problem exists. As a general rule, people
don't rinse thoroughly.
Why does the cleanser need complete
removal?
Elsewhere we discuss how the SkinClean
system acts to remove, a range of toxins as well as the by-products of
cellular metabolism by bringing those offending materials into a micro-web
called a cellulosic colloidal matrix. This occurs both on a macro
level (large enough for the eye to see), and a micro level (producing a
filth ridden thin film as little as a molecule thick). We are not
trying to overpower you, or impress you, with a complicated explanation
(if we could explain it in a simpler way, we would) , but sometimes understanding
something about this mechanism makes our logic (as in this situation) perhaps
more understandable. The scrubbing process activates the action of
this colloidal matrix, and once these toxins and dirt and exhausted cells
are bound into the system, we need to remove everything completely from
the skin. A cursory rinse (one with just a few splashes of water)
can get the bulk of the cleansed material, and the bulk of the matrix,
but that monomolecular film, which still working and holding other contaminants
can be left behind if the skin is not adequately rinsed. Leaving
behind that toxic micro-layer can easily cause the cleansed pores to become
contaminated anew, and even invade new locations. Further, that mono-molecular
layer of the matrix contains some of the surfactants (surface active agents,
used as part of the mechanism to get that dirt and unwanted matter into
the matrix), and leaving those behind can cause skin irritation, sort of
like if you lathered your body up with your bar of Zest, and shampooed
your hair, and then jumped out of the shower, without rinsing further,
and merely just toweled off. You can imagine how irritated your skin
would be. What would be left behind, after using your SkinClean
product, would be even less appealing, because, what can be left behind
after doing a cleansing, will also contain the recently dislodged "detris"
we described previously. So, it is apparent that we simply don't
want to leave anything behind by inadequately rinsing the SkinClean cleanser.
SkinClean does a remarkable job of binding that cellular matter and toxins,
and we need to complete that job.. That requires total removal.
A great, thorough warm water rinse with multiple flushes, until a squeaky
clean skin is felt, is all anyone needs, but for those who can't do that,
then the alcohol toner will finish the job for them.
What does the alcohol toner do?
For people who don't adequately
rinse, the use of the alcohol toner, used by wiping the skin with saturated
cotton ball swabs, acts as an insurance procedure to remove any residual
of the activated SkinClean colloidal matrix, and whatever detris it has
collected. Using the saturated balls, swabbing all the areas which
were cleansed, will make sure that whatever was missed by an inadequate
job of warm water rinsing, is completely removed with the toner.
We don't use isopropyl (or "rubbing alcohol), but instead, pure alcohol,
distilled from grain. Ethyl Alcohol acts as a wonderful solvating
agent for complete removal of any residual of the SkinClean system left
by inadequate rinsing. Non-alcohol toners simply lack that ability
to provide that degree of effective solvation, plus have other negatives,
discussed later. The alcohol is only on the skin momentarily. It
is effective and quick, taking the unwanted materials into the cotton swabs.
The evaporative process completely removes all any remaining alcohol from
your skin in just a few seconds after application.
To summarize: Our experience and
observation of so many people using the product in test situations indicates
that without personal instruction, most don't rinse with warm water thoroughly
enough. The alcohol toner used with cotton ball swabs will insure
that any residual skin cleaner is totally removed, producing the effect
of an adequate warm water rinse. This is our reason for adding the
alcohol-toner recommendation to our instructions.
Exceptions
If you find that the strength of
a particular alcohol toner is too strong for your situation, for example,
if you feel excessive stinging, then simply dilute that toner with distilled
water until it can be tolerated by your skin. You then will have
to use your newly diluted mixture longer (and with more saturated cotton
swabs) for the same removal effect, but it will still be effective.
Other benefits of the Alcohol Toner
There are several other benefits
which are enjoyed from the use of the alcohol toner, apart from being an
insurance for complete removal of all traces of the SkinClean cleanser.
For example, ethyl alcohol acts as a very effective antiseptic, and can
serve to help remove remaining surface bacteria, which may not have been
removed in the use of the cleanser. There are superior antiseptic
chemicals, such as the quaternary ammonium compounds, like benzalkonium
chloride, which could be utilized for further bactericidal action, but
incorporating those into a toner has disadvantages in that they remain
on the skin. As an instant antiseptic wipe that leaves no residue,
ethyl alcohol is the absolutely the best. Another benefit to using
the alcohol comes from its astringent capability. Astringent agents
are defined as those which contract organic tissue. Alcohol is an
astringent, and can cause your pores to contract. Repeatedly, in
public discussions, people, who hold themselves out as authorities on skin
information, will say that alcohol does not tighten pores. This is
complete disinformation. First, the skin is a complicated organic
polymer structure, and behaves under the laws of thermoplasticity.
When you wash and rinse with warm water your skin expands, just like a
plastic material would. Pores are made more flexible and they open.
This makes the cleansing process better, but afterwards it is important
not to have expanded cells and pores. Therefore, if for no other
reason than from the cooling effect from the remarkable evaporative traits
of the alcohol, ethanol will cause the pores to close by thermoplastic
contraction. But, like they say on the infomercials, "that's not
all." Secondly, ethyl alcohol is an excellent astringent, and organic
tissue has a reaction (the same way it does to an herbal astringent like
witch hazel) to the presence of ethanol by contracting, giving the benefits
of protecting previous opened, and cleansed, pores from recontamination.
An astringent herb applied topically (to the surface), like witch hazel,
will also tighten the tissue, and makes a good addition to an alcohol toner.
Incidentally, the presence on a label of the term "witch hazel" in any
preparation, other than an ethyl alcohol formulaton, often means that,
most likely, you are just getting a propylene glycol extract. Use
of those "extracts" is indicative that the combination is virtually ineffective,
and merely included for the "label value." Elsewhere, we will discuss
the history of the witch hazel herb, and what is the only useful presentation
of this valuable ingredient.
Does alcohol irritate some people's
skin?
Any ingredient in any cosmetic product
can cause some people to have an adverse reaction. There is a very
tiny percentage of people who simply cannot tolerate ethyl alcohol on their
skin, and they have a reaction to its use. This amounts to about one half
of one percent of the general population (.5% or .005)., or five out of
a thousand. As mentioned previously, alcohol based products such as toners
and men's after shave lotions have a 75 year history as having a wonderful
safety record. Colognes and perfumes, which are eighty to ninety
percent alcohol, have been in use for hundreds of years (up until the '40s,
popular splash-on alcohol preparations were known under the unseeming name
of "toilet waters"), daily, by millions and millions of women and men without
any adverse reaction to the alcohol. However, there are some people
who simply cannot tolerate alcohol. If alcohol causes a rash, or
breaking out or redness for you then you are part of that very tiny percentage.
This is something you would most likely would have become aware of early
in your life. Certainly, if you have used a cologne or fragrance,
you would have discovered your lack of tolerance to alcohol. If you
think perhaps that you are one of those who reacts negatively to alcohol
preparations, then take a cotton swab, and wipe the product in question
on the bare smooth skin on the inside of the crook of your arm (other
side of your elbow), several times per day, and observe that area for the
next two weeks. See if you have any reaction to the alcohol
product. The very nature of alcohol's evaporative characteristic
enables it to do its' function, and then be completely gone from the skin.
If you were to do a conventional patch test with alcohol you probably would
be able to get a reaction rather predictably. For example, if you
took a cotton swab or pad and saturated that with alcohol and then use
adhesive tape to totally seal that swab against your skin so that alcohol
would be in contact with your skin continuously for several days, 24 hours
a day, and then removed it, you would most likely have produced a redness
or a rash or some serious debrading of the skin. But, a test like
that would not be relevant to predicting how a person's skin would respond
to the "real world" situation of wiping an alcohol based product on the
skin, because of the rapidity by which remaining alcohol evaporates away.
What about so-called "non-alcohol" toners?
"Non-alcohol" toners are not non
alcohol. What is perhaps most shocking for many people to learn is
that non-alcohol toners contain alcohols, but not alcohols which are really
suited for a toner application. The glycols which are employed in
the "non-alcohol" toners, such as butylene glycol, hexalene glycol, propylene
glycol and even ethylene glycol are actually each a type of alcohol called
a "dihydroxy alcohol." Butylene glycol is one of the most commonly
used today. Prior to use in toners, butylene glycol was used primarily
as an industrial solvent, and for plasticizers in polyester and polyurethane
resins. It is a colorless, odorless, very viscous (thick) liquid,
which is miscible (similar to dissolves) in water. What is very troubling
is that the temperature needed to volatilize butylene glycol is much higher
than skin temperature. This indicates the compound will remain on the skin,
which will increase the potential for absorption. A comparison of
boiling points is an indicator of the relative evaporative capacity of
liquids at room temperature. Water has a boiling point of 212 degrees
F, Ethyl Alcohol's boiling point is 173.9 Fahrenheit. Butylene Glycol
has a boiling point of 404 degrees F. This is one of the reasons
the glycol alcohols are used as radiator antifreeze liquids (Prestone is
Ethylene Glycol). This lack of volatility (evaporative capability)
causes butylene glycol (dihydroxy alcohol) and the other glycols stay behind
as a resistant film when applied to the skin in the so-called "non-alcohol"
toners. Also, since glycols are known to be lipophilic in nature,
and therefore have the potential to accumulate in fat tissue if left on
the skin, they run the risk of being carriers of surface contaminants into
the body. Toxicological data regards butylene glycol as a skin
irritant drawing from the data from the Selected Registry of Toxic effects
of Chemical Substances (RTECS) while ethyl alcohol is not, using those
same criteria. Our only concern, in spite of such classification
as a skin irritant for the butylene glycol would be if it remains on the
skin for a long period of time (as it would in the standard use of a "non-alcohol"
toner). Using it, then removing it completely, would eliminate any
concern we would have. Therefore, in our opinion, because of their
limited solvency capability (they are very weak in solvency compared to
ethyl alcohol), these "glycol" toners could be marginally effective in
acting as additional cleanser in your routine, however after using one,
you would want to clean the skin again with your SkinClean system, and
follow that with a true alcohol toner, to insure that all of the glycol
residue is completely removed.
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